Kinnebrew family succeeds with olive farming where Thomas Jefferson failed

Editor’s Note: The following story appears in the latest issue of the Southwest Georgia Outdoors magazine. A few copies of the magazine remain available at sponsors’ businesses and at the 306 W. Broad Ave. office of The Albany Herald.

By Tara Fletcher

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AMERICUS — Over the past couple of decades, olive farms have been popping up across Georgia. Most people think olives are a new addition to the many crops Georgia is known to grow, but the history of Georgia and olives goes way back. 

After returning from France, Thomas Jefferson expressed excitement about the possibility of growing olives in the southern United States.

 “I never had my wishes so kindled for the introduction of any article of new culture into our own country,” he said, and in 1791, hoping to build a profitable grove, he did just that. Jefferson brought 500 olive tree seedlings to Georgia. Unfortunately most of the trees died and his dream was not realized.

Although Jefferson wasn’t successful in his attempts, he inspired others to endeavor to grow the fruit-bearing evergreen. In the 1800s, people like Louisa Greene Shaw, James Hamilton Couper, and Thomas Spalding accomplished what Jefferson couldn’t,  and soon pickled olives and olive oil became profitable Georgia crops. Shortly after the crop caught on, though, labor shortages caused by the Civil war, the popularity of cotton seed oil and a couple of hurricanes toppled Georgia’s olive industry.

In 1820, while olives were thriving on Georgia’s coast, the Kinnebrew family was settling on its 400-acre farm in Sumter County. For the next 100-plus years, the family grew peaches, and in the 1940s they began to grow row crops. To this day, the farm actively grows row crops. But now sixth-generation farmer Easton Kinnebrew has put his stamp on the family legacy with the addition of 20 acres of Arbiquina olive trees.

“I’m a general contractor; I grew up hanging out with my granddad on the farm and I really enjoyed it,” Kinnebrew said..”I decided I wanted to continue the family tradition (as a hobby) and farm something of my own. In 2011, after talking to a fellow grower, I decided I could ease into olive farming without a huge expense or too much work and I planted 10 acres of trees. I was wrong on both points.” 

With that, on the northernmost edge of the olive belt, New Era Olive Farm was born. The Kinnebrews understood that their baby would take 3-5 years to produce its first harvest. While they waited, they planted an additional 10 acres. Nearly 5 years in, New Era had a crop.

The harvest season at the olive farm is typically in the fall. Once the fruit is harvested, it’s taken to the mill within 24 hours.

“The 24-hour time frame is crucial to ensure the quality and purity of the olive oil,” New Era co-owner Stephanie Kinnebrew said. “After it’s pressed at the mill, it returns to the farm where it sits for 2 to 3 months while sediment settles. The sediment is then removed from most of the oil and two products are bottled: extra virgin olive oil and olio nuevo (new oil).

“The obvious difference between the two oils is that one has sediment and one doesn’t, but the taste of the olio nuevo (with sediment) has a fresher, fruitier flavor. Also, the shelf life is different. The sediment-free oil has a shelf life of 3-4 years, and the new oil lasts 4-6 months.” 

To ensure their crop maintains its quality and the distinction of extra virgin, the farm’s soil is tested twice a year and the product is tested by UGA for fatty acid and polyphenol content. In the olive oil industry, Stephanie says, “70% of olive oil in grocery stores is really a mix of a little olive oil and nut or seed oil so you’re not always getting what you think you’re buying.”

She also advises buyers to only purchase olive oils in dark glass bottles. She noted: “Clear plastic bottles allow too much sunlight in and change the composition of the oil.” 

The Kinnebrews admit that they are constantly learning new things about the olive-growing business. As part of that education, Easton sits on the board of the Southeast Olive Growers Association formed to further the production of olives in the Southeast through shared information. The pair are also looking into investing in building a local mill to better serve the region’s olive growers.

Stephanie and Easton said they want to grow olives for the rest of their lives, and in return for your support they promise to produce a quality product.

“Local farms are so important because the money they earn goes back into the community, and the community knows where their product comes from and what’s in it,”  Stephanie said.

Currently, interested consumers can purchase New Era’s oils on neweraolivefarm.com, at all Stripling’s locations and at various boutiques in the Americus area.