Basic dog training you can do at home

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By Lauren Liebhaber
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Pet insurance brand

ManyPets

compiled a list of tips for training your dogs at home, including setting up an environment for success and a few specific commands.

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Arguably the most important aspect of dog training is not your dog’s ability to learn but your ability to communicate effectively.Training requires precision, like marking a desired behavior with a word or a clicker. It also requires discipline and consistency. Dogs are adept at recognizing patterns, making them fast learners of both good and bad habits—so training needs to be intentional and thoughtful. The best way to set yourself and your dog up for success is to do your preliminary research, gather the necessary tools and acumen, and dedicate a little time each day to training. Start with short sessions, easy wins, and realistic expectations.

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Mindlessly putting a bowl of food in front of your puppy is a missed opportunity for training. Instead, use mealtime as an opportunity to feed by hand while training—such as doling out portions of a meal for every successful completion of a training task. Working for food is mentally enriching but should only be done for as long as your dog is focused and happy. If your dog shows signs of stress, end the training and let them eat freely.

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Knowing when and how to get and hold your dog’s attention will help shift focus from triggers out in the world that might put dogs over the threshold when they can no longer pay attention to anything except the trigger.This is especially important for reactive dogs: dogs who get aggressive or overly excited by specific external stimuli. If your dog is looking at you, it’s not looking at the trigger. You can start this training in your own home, rewarding your dog every time it makes unprompted eye contact with you. Treat often and generously. Eventually, they will learn that looking at you, or “checking in,” is a positive and default behavior. Practice this skill in gradually more distracting environments.

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The world can be an overwhelming place for dogs, especially puppies who are experiencing it with all of their senses for the first time. Vacuums, sirens, skateboards, wheelchairs, people in hats, nail clippers, and sewer grates are just a few examples of the types of seemingly innocuous things that could be frightening.Slowly desensitizing or counterconditioning your dog to these triggers will help build their confidence and create positive associations with scary stimuli. Start small in your own home by treating your dog for every positive interaction it has with a trigger. If a vacuum is terrifying, for example, treat your dog with every glance, step toward, or sniff of the vacuum while it’s off. Over time, you can decrease the distance from triggers and increase the time spent interacting with them.

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Teaching dogs patience can be difficult, but solidifying manners like “sit,” “stay,” and “wait” have practical and safety benefits.When guests enter your house, you might use these commands as part of a polite greeting routine. They can also be used as part of a polite greeting routine with dogs they encounter out in the world. Or, you might train dogs to stay whenever a door (house or car) is opened to prevent them from running out into streets or parking lots. Begin in your own home by rewarding patient choices your dog makes, even without a verbal cue. If your dog chooses to sit, treat them for it. If your dog calmly watches you move around without following, reward that behavior. Eventually, dogs will learn that these choices lead to positive outcomes.

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Leash training is critically important, especially if walking is one of your dog’s primary forms of exercise. No human likes to be dragged by a dog pulling on a leash, and no dog likes to be yanked constantly. Ideally, leash walking should be a choreographed dance with communication, cues, a leader, and a follower. Also, consider attaching the leash to a harness instead of directly to your dog’s collar—it’s safer and more comfortable for your pup. You can begin at home by letting your dog get used to the weight, feel, and sound of the leash. Practice walking from room to room or around the yard, slowly introducing tension. Whenever your dog “checks in” while on a leash, walks next to you, or walks with slack in the leash, reward them generously.

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Being able to communicate with your dog about when to leave something alone could save their lives.Dogs are curious and will explore the world with their mouths, which could mean accidentally eating or chewing something dangerous. This type of impulse control is especially hard for dogs. It’s a big ask to expect a dog to leave a chicken wing on the street without getting something better in return, so training this command starts with small victories at home with safe objects—like rewarding your dog when they simply look away from the thing you want them to leave. Over time, with increased difficulty and many repetitions, your dog will be conditioned to simply walk away when they hear “leave it.”

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Recall is one of the most important skills you can build with your dog to keep them safe. The best way to start is in your own home.Like most other skills, starting with small distances—like calling your dog to you from a few feet away—will help build confidence and understanding of the verbal cue and expected outcome. Reward generously and celebrate each time your dog makes it to you. You want to enforce that coming back to you is more exciting than any other distractions out in the world. Increase the recall distance when they are consistently coming when called.Next, you can move the training to your yard, which offers more real-world distraction. Eventually, when you move to even more distracting environments like a park or field, start with your dog on a long lead so you’re able to enforce the command and have them safely secured if they lose focus.

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The place command instructs your dog to go to a specific spot and stay there. This is slightly more complicated than stay, but it creates a safe, comfortable place for them to relax in potentially stressful situations such as when guests arrive or if you’re cooking and don’t want your dog underfoot.“Places” can be dog beds, crates, or cots. Begin by designating a location as the “place” and reward them for interacting with it: looking at it, sniffing it, putting their paws on it, or lying down on it. When they are comfortable with that spot, you can add the verbal cue and increase the three D’s.

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