SIGNATURE DISH: Henry’s Fine Edibles is worth a visit for dinner, a drink, or both

ALBANY — For more than 30 years, Henry’s Fine Edibles has been tucked away in the southeast corner of Largo Plaza off of Dawson Road. The restaurant/bar is a hidden jewel with a loyal following of repeat customers, a palate-pleasing menu and a well-stocked bar and wine selection.

Founded in 1984 by Patty and John Faulkner, Henry’s changed hands several times before Pearly Gates and Jim Ervin purchased the restaurant in 2006. When Gates experienced health issues, Ervin bought him out in 2011 to become the sole proprietor.

“As a past international president of the Lions Club International, I traveled the world and I’ve experienced every culture you can image and all the foods that go along with it,” Ervin said of what got him into the restaurant business. “That made me get back into the food business. I have always loved to cook. As I look at my business as a restaurant owner, I think that service is the real key.

“When people come through our front door, if we give them good service, good food at a good price, they are going to come back. They need to feel comfortable about being here, and we feel like that is what we do.”

As a general rule, restaurants that stay in business for more than three decades have a formula for success.

“My employees are the key to my success. There’s a lot of competition out there, and I tell my people to be the best they can be every day. Give the customer good food and good service,” Ervin said. “I’d like to think we are a big part of the Albany community, and I’d also like to think we are a great representative slice of Albany.”

Ervin said his goal is to make his customers comfortable.

“To me, the most appealing part about Henry’s is knowing we have a lot of people in Albany who enjoy going out and having a nice evening at a restaurant and us being able to provide them good food and good service,” he said. “I enjoy meeting people and making certain that they are happy with their experience here.”

The restaurant’s kitchen is small, just big enough to fit cooks Dylan Williams and Robert Daniels into, but that tiny kitchen delivers big tastes.

“We try to keep our menu exciting and enjoyable,” Ervin said. “We have the best steaks of anybody in south Georgia. We hand-cut all of our steaks and use our own seasonings. We have a beautiful stuffed grouper. Our shrimp and cheese grits are to die for. When you eat them, you are going to say ‘Wow!’ Everything we put on a table in front of a customer is honestly good food. Now sometimes, we’ll cook something Cajun style for someone who doesn’t know Cajun is spicy — especially some of the ladies.

“But we will put our food up against anybody’s. We’re very proud of our food.”

When the cheese grits and shrimp arrived, the chef’s words were borne out.

The shrimp was succulent, and the sausage had a little bite without being too sharp. The grits were smooth and creamy without being overwhelmed by the cheese. The meal was also infused with slivers of yellow and red bell peppers.

The meal was accompanied by a zesty Pinot Grigio that blended perfectly with the meal. After dinner, a large pour of Cabernet Sauvignon capped the evening. And the check did not break the bank.

Henry’s begins serving dinner at 5 p.m. If you have never visited one of Albany’s best-kept secrets, drop in for the cheese shrimp and grits … you won’t regret it.